Akrame

The culinary world likes to bestow stars upon its favorites. Wunderkind Akrame Benallal is the current darling – trained by the world’s best – Pierre Gagnaire, Alain Solivérès (Les Elysées), Ferran Adria (el Bulli) – a career so bright, he has already collected three Michelin stars, most recently at his sub-one year old Hong Kong outpost to the 2 starred nakesame Akrame in Paris.

At only 30, Benallal opened Akrame in 2011 steps away from Arc de Triomphe, as to signal a bid for his own Parisian landmark. His succeeds. He takes reference from the top restaurants: scaled back hours (no weekends); a gracious waitstaff that anticipates and delivers; an intimate atmosphere (around 20 seats) – but jolts it with a nuanced, experimental bolt of creativity that excites diners, drawing them back to French haute cuisine. It’s younger, hipper, but no less elegant.  As the diner, you are in the very capable hands of Chef Benallal, who chooses what you eat based on his preferred flavor of the moment.

The contemporary, muted-black and white decor is a canvas for Benallal’s artistic creations, colorful, striking and meticulously plated (even if they seem painted by flinging a brush across). An open kitchen lets you peer into his atelier, its communal bustle reflect a kitchen where talent is awarded. Innovative – sometimes to the point of theatrical – such as a dish of Brittany lobster, cooked in one hot minute in an oversized test tube in front of you by pouring hot consommé inside. The chef commands attention, never allowing its food to go by unnoticed – be it through its dazzling,  curious dressing, or unexpected textures and taste. Lunch, 3 courses €60; Dinner, €100 (4 courses), €130 (6 courses).