L’Avant Comptoir

Elbow your way through the line that snakes around Le Comptoir, the quintessential Parisian bistro by legendary chef Yves Camdeborde, and make your way next door to his minuscule tapas and wine bar, L’Avant Comptoir. It is hidden behind a crêpe stand that keeps the tourists entertained and distracted. Slip behind the plastic curtain and you’ve found it, a spot favored by wine connoisseurs, industry, and foodies-in-the-know. It was good practice, because at this boisterous, standing room-only space, you will need to be assertive to stake a place at the shoulder-to-shoulder zinc bar. Claim your glass of natural wine, spy something interesting (written in French, but with a photo) from the fluttering papers dropping from the ceiling; and munch on the communal gherkins and bread and Bordier butter while you wait. Drink, eat, converse as you choose – as little or as much as you want – salty, carnal charcuterie; foie gras and piquillo skewers; duck confit sausage hot dogs; macarons of blood sausage; artichoke and cured ham waffles – tight, meaty portions bursting with flavor. Mealtime has never been so satisfying.