Les Déserteurs

Daniel Baratier and sommelier Alexandre Céret have “deserted” the one starred Ile St- Louis restaurant Le Sergent Recruteur (where the chef served on whim accented by a commendable wine list) in favor of their own spartan place, aptly named “Les Déserteurs”. Bastille is no stranger to neo bistros, and this one, too, is achingly hip. Foodies are drawn to complex flavor drawn from simple, farm-fresh ingredients. Perhaps used to chef’s choice of his previous employer, Baratier changes his prix fixe menu by the day.

Asian nuances – yuzu, bamboo, Japanese plums – add an exotic hint to updated Breton cuisine. The menu is ingredient-driven, with so much name-dropping of each province that it might overshadow the cooking if the artistically-plated dishes did not taste sublimely.

Partner and sommelier Céret’s skill is also on display. His edited selection of wines elevates the restaurant from merely a place to dine accented with good wine, to a wine-driven destination. Together, both are a tour de force that challenges the white-starched Parisian gastronomy scene – and the new relaxed bistros trendy as of late. With €28 three course lunch and €45-60 4-to-6 course dinners, the execution, taste and talent are a bargain indeed.